- #Arduino bluetooth 4.0 shield serial
- #Arduino bluetooth 4.0 shield android
- #Arduino bluetooth 4.0 shield software
SPI is a useful communication standard because it only requires 3 pins.
The letters and numbers that the nRF8001 sends to your Arduino are what it received from the phone over Bluetooth. In the case of the nRF8001, these translated letters and numbers are transmitted over the Bluetooth connection to your phone.
#Arduino bluetooth 4.0 shield software
In this way, a sequence of 1s and 0s is transmitted and translated into letters, numbers, and commands, which the software can then act on. If a high voltage is read, that is a '1'. For every click of the SCK pin, the slave looks on MOSI and figures out if the voltage is high or low. The SCK pin clicks up and down in a regularly spaced square wave (square wave meaning it has two values, high or low). The Arduino behaves as the master and the nRF as the slave, though the roles can be reversed in theory. The Arduino SPI is connected to an equivalent 3 pin SPI unit on the nRF8001. Arduino pin 13 is SCK (Serial Clock), 12 MISO (Master In Slave Out), and 11 MOSI (Master Out Slave In).
#Arduino bluetooth 4.0 shield serial
These three pins are important because they make up a special hardware unit on the Arduino called the Serial Peripheral Interface or SPI. If you have another Arduino, you must find out which pins are SPI and connect to those instead. This should be the same for all ATMega328P based Arduinos (Uno/Duemilanove). The first 3 breakouts, labeled SCK, MISO, and MOSI, must go to pins 13, 12, and 11 respectively. If you don't have the Arduino UNO like in the schematic, pay close attention to the Arduino pin number that you connect the wires to. Each wire connects to the breadboard "column" of the breakout pin it needs to connect to. Here is a close-up shot of the breadboard to show what's going on. Of course this picture doesn't include the breadboard. (If you are unfamiliar with how a breadboard works, quickly hop over here to make sure you don't accidentally wire something incorrectly.) The wiring should be done like the first image of the board and bluetooth. Wiring it up is straightforward, though it requires a breadboard. Don't try to skip the soldering step - a poor electrical connection will be hard to track down and could waste hours of your time.
Be sure to solder with the short end of the headers inside the board and the long ends facing downward. Once you have purchased your bluetooth board, you need to solder the included header pins into the holes on the breakout board.
#Arduino bluetooth 4.0 shield android
The nRF8001 consumes so little power that, depending on the application, this board could run for years on a single coin cell battery! Adafruit also provides an iOS and Android app to interface with your bluetooth board. We are eventually going to make our project entirely battery powered, so we like this. This particular board also uses bluetooth 4.0 which allows it to sip small, regulated amounts of electricity. In short, it lets you send commands and receive responses in good old ASCII plain-text with no hassle. We like the 8001 because it implements a UART interface over bluetooth. We will be using the Adafruit nRF8001 breakout board, though there are several great bluetooth breakout boards and shields on the market.
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